The History of the Qipao (Cheongsam)
The qipao, also known as the cheongsam, is one of the most iconic garments in Chinese fashion. This sleek, high-collared dress is instantly recognizable for its elegance and cultural flair. But did you know the qipao’s story spans centuries? From its Manchu origins in the Qing Dynasty to In the Mood for Love and high school proms, this dress has evolved alongside China’s history. Ever wondered how this form-fitting dress became a cultural symbol? Let’s dive into the rich history of the qipao – a journey that’s as captivating as the dress itself!
Manchu Origins: From Court Robe to Qipao
The qipao’s roots trace back to the 17th century during Manchu-ruled China. In this era, Manchu women wore a traditional one-piece long robe known as qizhuang, which would later inspire the qipao’s design. In fact, the word “qipao” (旗袍) literally means “banner gown,” referring to the Manchu Eight Banner administrative divisions. Back then, the style was very different from today’s slinky silhouette. The early qipao was a loose, modest gown with a high neck and straight form that covered most of a woman’s body. Han Chinese women under Qing rule typically continued wearing two-piece hanfu outfits, while Manchu women’s dress evolved into this distinctive one-piece robe.
In imperial Beijing, a Manchu lady might appear in a long silk robe with floral embroidery, her dress designed to conceal shape rather than accentuate it. Fast forward to the late Qing dynasty (19th century), and we start to see subtle changes. Under growing Western influence, even the courtly Manchu robes began to slim down slightly, hinting at the transformation to come. By the time the Qing Dynasty fell in 1911, the stage was set for a fashion revolution. The fall of imperial rules and the rise of modern ideas (like women’s education and liberation) created an environment ripe for the qipao’s dramatic makeover.
Fun fact: The term “cheongsam” is Cantonese for “long dress” (長衫, chèuhng-sāam), and it became the English name for the qipao after the garment took on its modern form. So whether you say qipao or cheongsam, you’re talking about the same dress!
1920s Shanghai: The Golden Age of the Cheongsam
The Roaring Twenties brought roaring changes to Chinese fashion. After the Qing dynasty ended, China’s cities, especially Shanghai, embraced new cultural freedom. The old-style robes of the Qing era were reinvented as the stylish modern qipao we know today. In the 1920s and 1930s, Shanghai’s socialites and movie stars eagerly adopted the cheongsam, turning it into the hottest trend of the day.
The cheongsam of this era was dramatically different from its Qing ancestor. It became a sleek, form-hugging dress with a mandarin collar and an asymmetric front opening secured by decorative frog buttons. Designers slimmed the sleeves or removed them entirely, and introduced daring side slits so women could walk (or dance!) more easily. By the 1930s, hem lengths crept up to the calf or knee, reflecting flapper-era influences. It was a perfect East-meets-West fusion – Chinese elegance with a dash of Western sass.
Shanghai’s elite ladies rocked the qipao. They paired these dresses with stylish perms, pearl necklaces, and T-strap heels, creating a look of cosmopolitan glamor. Celebrities and high-society figures made the qipao a must-have item. One style icon, Madame Wellington Koo (a fashionable Chinese first lady), even shocked society by slashing her qipao’s side slits up to the knee, revealing lace pantaloons beneath! That was considered quite scandalous and innovative at the time – and it certainly got people talking.
In 1929, the Republican government of China recognized the qipao’s popularity and designated it as an official national dress for women. This seal of approval propelled the cheongsam to even greater fame. If you lived in 1930s Shanghai, you’d see qipaos everywhere from chic cafés on Nanjing Road to the glamorous dance halls. The dress had become the symbol of urban Chinese womanhood – modern, confident, and refined.
(Imagine the vibe: Jazz music playing in a Shanghai club, and women in satin cheongsams sipping cocktails – the qipao was the outfit of this new Chinese modernity.)
War, Revolution and Diaspora: Mid-20th Century Ups and Downs
The qipao’s golden age in the mainland was relatively brief. The 1940s and 1950s brought turbulent times – World War II and the Chinese Civil War. After 1949, the new Communist government in mainland China discouraged bourgeois customs and tried to suppress traditional fashion like the qipao. During the radical years of the Cultural Revolution (1960s), wearing a figure-flattering cheongsam could even be dangerous; it was seen as counter to the new egalitarian dress code, and women faced punishment for donning “decadent” styles. As a result, the qipao virtually disappeared from daily life in mainland China mid-century.
However, the story didn’t end there – it simply moved locations. Many Shanghainese tailors and fashion-minded folks fled to Hong Kong, which remained under British rule and embraced a more permissive culture. In 1950s Hong Kong, the cheongsam thrived. It became standard feminine attire, both casual and formal, for many women in the city. Imagine 1950s Hong Kong: teachers, receptionists, and even airline stewardesses wearing smart, tailored qipao as uniforms. Hong Kong’s women often paired their cheongsams with short jackets for work or wool cardigans in cooler weather. This era preserved the qipao’s lineage when it had faded elsewhere.
By the late 1960s, though, even Hong Kong’s everyday fashion began to Westernize (hello, miniskirts and bell-bottoms!). The qipao gradually shifted from daily wear to special occasions. Yet it never truly went out of style – it became a classic. In other Chinese communities (Taiwan, Singapore, overseas), the qipao was likewise reserved for formal events but stayed firmly in the cultural wardrobe.
One of the most evocative tributes to the qipao’s mid-century elegance comes from film. Wong Kar-Wai’s movie In the Mood for Love (2000), set in 1960s Hong Kong, features actress Maggie Cheung wearing a stunning array of cheongsams – almost a different one in every scene. Those scenes capture how gracefully the qipao had adapted to the 1960s: high necklines and slim cuts in gorgeous fabrics, a perfect blend of tradition and nostalgia. For many viewers, that film was a love letter to the qipao’s timeless charm.
Modern Revival: Qipao in the 1980s to Today
After decades of political shifts, the qipao saw a resurgence from the 1980s onward. As China opened up and re-embraced aspects of its cultural heritage, this elegant dress made a comeback. Designers, both in China and abroad, started incorporating qipao elements into contemporary fashion. By the 1990s and 2000s, the cheongsam was back in the spotlight – not as everyday wear, but as the ultimate statement of Chinese chic for special moments.
Today, the qipao stands proudly as a symbol of Chinese culture and feminine grace. It’s frequently worn during formal occasions like weddings, Lunar New Year parties, and beauty pageants. Chinese brides, for instance, often wear a traditional red qipao for their wedding tea ceremony, combining it with a white gown for the western-style ceremony. (Red is considered an auspicious colour – wearing a red qipao is believed to bring happiness and luck to the marriage.) In fact, a bride dressed in a red cheongsam is said to bring blessings to her union, a custom still cherished by many families.
Beyond weddings, you’ll also spot qipaos as uniforms in certain high-end restaurants, hotels, and even on international flight attendants of Asian airlines. For example, some crews of China’s airlines wear sleek cheongsam-inspired suits as a nod to national tradition. And let’s not forget pageant queens and celebrities: it’s almost a cliché (in the best way!) for Miss China or actresses on the red carpet to appear in a dazzling, embroidered qipao, representing Chinese elegance.
Modern uses of the qipao include:
- Festivals & Parties: Worn during Lunar New Year and cultural festivals to showcase heritage.
- Weddings: A popular choice for brides (especially in red) and sometimes bridesmaids, symbolizing joy and prosperity.
- Uniforms: Adopted by luxury hotels, airlines, and restaurants for an upscale, culturally rich dress code.
- Fashion & Runways: Inspires collections by designers worldwide; modern twists include cocktail qipaos and even casual qipao-inspired tops.
- Pop Culture: Seen in movies, TV dramas, and even video games, reinforcing its iconic status.
The qipao has truly gone global. Fashionistas around the world, not just those of Chinese heritage, appreciate its beauty.
What’s especially wonderful is how young designers in Asia are reinventing the qipao for everyday wear. As Hong Kong designer Grace Choi put it, “Cheongsam is a very traditional style, so for us young designers, we want to present it more fashionably.”
Modern labels have created casual versions – think qipao-inspired summer dresses or chic mini-dresses with Mandarin collars – making the style accessible to the younger generation. The essence of the dress remains the same, but it keeps transforming with the times.
“[Cheongsam] is a living heritage… It’s dynamic; it’s brilliant, it’s transformative.”
This quote truly captures the qipao’s journey. A dress that began in imperial courts and went on to survive wars, immigrate across oceans, and strut down runways is indeed a living heritage. The qipao continues to evolve and inspire, proving that classic style never truly dies – it just reinvents itself.
When you picture traditional Chinese clothing for women, the image of a graceful lady in a silk cheongsam is likely one of the first things that comes to mind. The qipao has come to symbolize Chinese femininity and cultural pride in a way few other garments have. It’s elegant yet empowering, traditional yet ever-adaptable.
Timeless Elegance – Yesterday, Today, and Tomorrow
From Qing dynasty courtiers to Shanghai flappers, from mid-century Hong Kong to 21st-century fashion shows, the qipao has accompanied Chinese women (and those who love Chinese culture) through countless changes. Its history is not just about hemlines and collars, but about the lives of the women who wore it – embracing modernity, asserting identity, and celebrating heritage.
In a world of fast fashion, the qipao’s enduring appeal is a testament to its perfect blend of form and meaning. It tells a story. When you wear a cheongsam, you’re not just wearing a pretty dress – you’re wearing a piece of history and a statement of culture. As one fashion writer noted, the qipao “remains a favourite across the globe for its elegant silhouette and cultural resonance.”
So, whether you’re a history buff, a fashionista, or someone who fell in love with that dress from a movie scene, the qipao invites you to be part of its story. The next chapter is being written now, with new designs and new wearers.
Curious to bring this timeless style into your own life? You don’t have to be in a 1930s jazz club – you can rock a qipao at your next event or even as a bold everyday look. The beauty of the cheongsam is that it’s always in style.
Why not explore our qipao collection and find a piece of history that speaks to you? Embrace the legacy of the qipao – a dress that truly stands the test of time, with grace and flair to spare.
Qipao FAQs
What is the origin of the qipao?
The roots of the qipao can be traced back to 17th century Manchu-ruled China. Manchu women would wear a a one-piece robe that eventually inspired the qipao in the 1920s.
What is the difference between a qipao and a cheongsam?
The qipao and cheongsam are actually different words for the same dress. Cheongsam originates from the Cantonese word for “long dress” (長衫, chèuhng-sāam), while qipao comes from Mandarin.
Is the qipao of Manchu origin?
While the qipao was derived from the Manchu qizhuang, the qipao itself wasn't created until the 1920s.
What is the male version of the qipao?
The male version of the qipao is the changpao or changshan.
What is the difference between a qipao and kimono?
The qipao is the Chinese national dress, while the kimono is the national dress of Japan. While the qipao is form-fitting, the kimono is looser with square sleeves and a rectangular body.
Can a white girl wear a cheongsam?
Yes. The qipao is a multi-ethnic dress intended as a unifying symbol. It is worn all over by China, including by white Tajik and Russian minorities.
What is the Korean version of a qipao?
The traditional clothing of the Korean people is the hanbok. Though this bears more resemblance to the Chinese Hanfu than the qipao.
How do you pronounce qipao?
The pronunciation of qipao can be approximated as "chee-pow"(/ˈtʃiːpaʊ/) in English.
How old is the qipao?
The qipao is a little over 100 years old.
