What Do the Colours of a Qipao / Cheongsam mean?
The qipao, or cheongsam is not only graceful expression of Chinese femininity, but also a canvas for cultural expression through colour. Colours carry deep symbolism in Chinese tradition and wearing a qipao of a particular hue can convey a specific meaning. Historically, certain colours were used by emperors to convey power, wealth and authority. Today, fashion trends have introduced new interpretations and in some places, tradition blends or even completes with modern (and often western) styles.
In this article, we explore the meanings of red, yellow/gold, blue, green, black and white in Chinese culture – both in the past and in contemporary contexts – as they relate to qipao.
Red - Luck, Happiness and Celebration
In Chinese culture, red is the most auspicious colour symbolising joy, vitality and good fortune. It corresponds to the element of fire in Chinese Wuxing (五行) and is famously worn during the Chinese New Year. Tradtionally, red was – and still is – worn for weddings and festivals. In a classical Chinese wedding, the bride almost always wears a red qipao to bless the marriage with luck and happiness.
In the modern times, red remains the most popular qipao colour for weddings and major festivals. Many Chinese brides choose a red qipao for their tea ceremony on reception on their big day to honour their heritage and to receive good blessings. In contemporary fashion, a red cheongsam is a stunning statement piece that projects cultural heritage and is often worn to galas or Chinese New Year parties.
However, there are some modern considerations when considering a red qipao. Much like white a western wedding, wearing red to a Chinese wedding as a guest is a cultural faux pas. To wear red is to draw attention away from the bride, who shouldn’t be upstaged during her own ceremony.
Overall, a red qipao is an excellent choice for celebratory events where you want to portray joy, success or prosperity.
Yellow and Gold - Royalty, Power and Prosperity
Yellow (especially a rich, golden yellow) had an exalted place in Chinese history. It was the colour of emperors in and imperial China and was the primary colour of the Qing Dynasty flag. This made yellow synonymous with power, royalty and authority. It was linked to the earth element, centrality and balance. In Buddhist symbolism, yellow represents freedom and heroism.
Today, yellow and gold are seen as auspicious colours conveying wealth and prestige. Much like in western culture, gold in particular is associated with luxury and prosperity. Gold is often combined with red when worn at weddings and celebrations. Full, bright yellow dresses are less commonly seen, but pale or pastel yellows are used in spring events or galas.
When wearing yellow or gold, be mindful of the context. The colour is great for joyful events and will certainly draw attention, but it should be avoided for sombre occasions. A yellow qipao is inappropriate for funerals or places where subtlety is required.
For most formal occasions, a yellow or gold qipao projects royalty, celebration and grandeur.
Blue and Green – Growth, Harmony and Vitality
In Chinese tradition blue was rarely distinguished from green, with both being falling under the umbrella of qing “青” in classical terms. It is associated with the wood element and hence is a representation of nature and everyday life. Blue was a somewhat class-neutral colour, worn by peasants or common folk and often used for work clothes. Equally, blue was worn in high society: for example, in the robes of Qing Dynasty imperial officials. Historically blue and green represented qualities like tranquillity, depth, growth, harmony, health and fertility.
In contemporary fashion, blue has become one of the most popular qipao colours, poetically transcending class now as it did in history. It’s often chosen by brides who want something other than the classic red and white gowns. Lighter blues portray a soft, feminine feel and combined with greens impress the feeling of nature. A deep blue looks regal and sophisticated and jade greens project beauty.
Due to their historical neutrality, blue and green qipaos carry no cultural taboos. They’re suitable for weddings (even as a guest), parties, banquets or everyday wear. One should, however, be wary of green hats, which imply that a man’s wife is unfaithful.
A deep blue qipao with traditional knot closures. Portraying regality, but due to its simplicity, suitable for everyday wear.
Black – Prestige, Formality and Professionalism
Black is interesting in that its historical meaning has mostly been superseded by more modern interpretations of the colour. Traditionally, black was considered as a neutral colour, linked to the element of water. It was considered by some ancient Chinese to be the “king of colours” in part due to being named “the colour of heaven” in the I Ching (易經). Unlike in western culture, Chinese tradition does not designate black as a colour of mourning – this role is taken by white.
In modern China, black has been almost wholly re-imagined as a colour of modernity and professionalism. It's common in business attire (suits, formal dresses) and is viewed as elegant and cosmopolitan.
A black qipao can look very chic – particularly in silk or velvet. It is a popular evening colour for cocktail parties or formal events that aren’t tied to Chinese cultural celebrations. However, it should be avoided for traditional celebrations like weddings or Chinese New Year – black is a colour of seriousness and may even be associated with misfortune in the modern age. A solid black dress at a Chinese wedding, for example, could be taken as a sign of disrespect (though black accents or accessories will not offend).
Choose a black qipao for a timeless, sophisticated look like a fancy dinner or professional setting. Skip it for occasions of merriment and luck and instead opt for something brighter. Black is beautiful and sleek, but the context matters.
A black qipao accompanied by a modern Chinese-inspired jacket, embroidered with bamboo leaves to portray professionalism, integrity and strength.
White – Purity, Mourning, and Modern Brides
Traditionally, white symbolises purity and brightness, but is also strongly associated with mourning. In the five-element system, it corresponds to metal symbolising qualities like fulfilment. Due to its blank, colourless nature, white became the standard colour for funerals. Mourning garments were made from undyed help or cotton (an off-white) to signify grief and respect for the dead. For a long time, white outside a funeral implied misfortune and invited bad spirits and was certainly to be avoided at festivals and weddings.
The meaning of white has evolved significantly due to Western influence. As western-style weddings with white gowns became popular worldwide (and indeed in China) many Chinese bridges began to wear white dresses on part of their wedding day. Today, its common to wear a white cheongsam for the ceremony and then change into a red qipao for the reception. This has dispelled the stigma around the colour and its now commonplace in everyday attire.
Outside of weddings, white qipaos are gorgeous for formal summer events or photoshoots to project innocence and grace. As in the west, white should be avoided at weddings if you’re a guest and may be best to skip the colour at a Chinese New Year celebration or an older family member’s birthday party due to its historic association with bad luck.
Summary – Choosing the Right Qipao Colour
Red – The most auspicious colour. Symbolises joy, prosperity and good fortune. Perfect for Chinese cultural celebrations and brides.
Yellow and Gold – Power, celebration and grandeur. Great for most formal events and celebrations.
Blue and Green – Neutrality, growth and in modern times, sophistication. A strong choice for any event and for everyday life. Good alternative choices for wedding attire.
Black – Prestige, formality and professionalism. The go-to for formal evening events and business. Suitable for many workplaces in the right cut.
White – Purity, brightness and fulfilment – traditional, mourning. A popular choice for modern brides, but also beautiful at summer events.
Whichever colour qipao you’re dressing in, wear it with pride and a smile. Wearing your cheongsam, you will not only look stunning but also display a rich cultural tapestry. Chinese or not, you will inspire honour with your deepened understanding of the garment’s heritage.