The History of Women's Clothing in China: From Hanfu to Cheongsam (Qipao) and Tang Suits
Traditional Chinese clothing for women boasts a rich history and timeless appeal. From flowing Hanfu robes in ancient dynasties to the sleek cheongsam (qipao) of the 20th century and modern Tang suits, each era brought its own style. This journey through history explores how traditional Chinese clothing evolved for women, highlighting key styles, cultural influences, and how these fashions still inspire today’s trends.
Ancient Origins: Hanfu and Early Dynastic Dress
In the Qin and Han dynasties, women’s clothing was long and flowing. Robes had broad sleeves and were worn with long skirts, often so long that noblewomen needed attendants to lift the hems off the ground. Embellishments were modest. Aristocratic ladies might wear an arm scarf (called jinguo) as a status symbol, while commoners kept their dress simple. These early outfits were usually wrapped right-over-left and secured with sashes, since buttons were not common. The overall style was dignified and conservative, emphasizing graceful lines. Colors in the Han era often included natural dyes. An especially popular combination was a “dark style” of black and red fabrics symbolizing heaven and earth. This established the foundation of traditional Chinese clothing for women for centuries to come.
Tang Dynasty Clothing
The Tang dynasty (618 to 907 CE) is often considered a golden age of Chinese culture, and women’s fashion during this period became especially vibrant and cosmopolitan. Thanks to Silk Road trade, new fabrics and dyes flowed into China, and Tang dynasty clothing reflected this diversity. Tang women’s attire evolved to be more colorful and daring, breaking from the stricter styles of earlier eras. One hallmark of Tang dynasty women’s clothing was the more open and revealing cut of upper garments. Women often wore long-sleeved silk blouses with relatively low-cut necklines that exposed the upper chest. These short blouses or form-fitting bodices were paired with long, flowing skirts that were tied high, sometimes just below the bust, using a wide sash. The high waist skirt (known as qixiong ruqun) created an elegant empire silhouette. Many Tang outfits also included a sheer shoulder shawl or wide scarves draped around the arms for added flair.
Tang dynasty styles were richly decorated and vibrant in color. Noblewomen could be seen in robes of green, blue, or patterned fabrics, while only the imperial family could wear pure yellow or gold hues. The combination of delicate silks, bold cuts, and vivid hues conveyed the prosperity of the era. Independent Tang women freely embraced these fashions, which were considered strikingly modern and liberating. A contemporary observer would note the contrast to earlier periods. Tang fashions celebrated the female form and love of beauty. In later dynasties, however, this openness would once again give way to more conservative trends.
Song and Ming Dynasty Clothing
After the fall of the Tang, later dynasties like the Song (960 to 1279) and Ming (1368 to 1644) brought shifts toward modesty and a return to classic Han elegance. Song dynasty women’s clothing became somewhat more reserved. For example, Song women typically fastened their dresses on the left side (opposite of men’s) and wore high-collared blouses or long tunics that reached near the ankles. These were often paired with pleated skirts and jackets with either short or long sleeves. Elite Song women might drape a large square scarf or shawl over their shoulders when going out, adding an air of propriety. The overall effect was graceful but less revealing than Tang attire.
During the Yuan dynasty (1279 to 1368) under Mongol rule, Han Chinese women’s dress continued in similar forms, though foreign influences did appear in court fashion. When the Ming dynasty, led by ethnic Han Chinese, came to power, there was a deliberate revival of traditional Hanfu styles. Ming fashion reformers rejected Mongol styles and reinforced Han Chinese identity through clothing. As a result, Ming dynasty women’s clothing closely resembled ancient Han designs, but with a more modest twist. Most Ming women wore a mid-length jacket or blouse over a long, floor-length skirt, creating an elongated, elegant silhouette. This ensemble often had a high waistline and long, flowing sleeves, evoking the classical grace of earlier times. Pastel colors and light silk or cotton fabrics were especially popular, giving Ming women’s fashion a gentle and refined look.
Layering was also common. Women might wear a cross-collar cotton top extending below the waist, paired with a pleated skirt (an outfit known as aoqun). Decorative patterns were subtler in this period. Small embroidered motifs of flowers or auspicious symbols would adorn the borders of garments rather than the bold brocades of the Tang. By the late Ming, the typical image of a Chinese lady was one of demure grace, wrapped in soft-hued silk, which set the stage for the dramatic change that the next dynasty would introduce.
Cheongsam (Qipao) in the 20th Century
The rise of the cheongsam, also known as the qipao, in the early 20th century marked a significant shift in Chinese women’s clothing. Its roots reach back to the Qing dynasty (1636 to 1912), when Manchu women wore a one-piece long robe called qizhuang. Unlike Han Chinese women (who were largely allowed to continue wearing Ming-style two-piece outfits during Qing rule), Manchu women’s clothing evolved into a high-collared, straight-cut gown. This was essentially the early qipao. However, this style did not become mainstream Chinese fashion until after the Qing dynasty fell.
In the 1920s, following the end of imperial rule, Chinese society modernized rapidly. The qipao was transformed in Republican China (1912 to 1949) into the stylish form-fitting dress we know today. Especially in cosmopolitan Shanghai, the cheongsam (from Cantonese for "long gown") became wildly fashionable among socialites and upper-class women. This modern cheongsam was tailored to flatter the feminine figure, blending Chinese tradition with modern tailoring. Typically made of silk or satin, it features a high mandarin collar and an asymmetrical front opening that fastens with decorative frog buttons. The cut is slender and body-hugging, with high slits on either side of the skirt. This bold innovation allowed ease of movement and a glimpse of the legs, influenced in part by Western styles.
A mannequin displays a classic red qipao, complete with rich gold embroidery and a form-fitting silhouette. First popularized in the 1920s, the cheongsam combined elegance and sensuality. It was often sleeveless or had short sleeves, and its silk fabric could be embroidered with flowers, dragons, or phoenixes for luck. By the 1930s, the cheongsam became the symbol of urban Chinese women’s identity and sophistication. Magazines of the era showed actresses and socialites in high-collared qipaos, pairing them with permed hair and pearl jewellery for a truly East-Meets-West glamor.
Tang Suits and Modern Revival
In recent years, there has been a renewed enthusiasm for Chinese traditional fashion, bringing old styles into modern wardrobes. One prominent example is the Tang suit. This is a modern adaptation that pays homage to Qing dynasty jackets. Despite its name, the Tang suit (tangzhuang) is not from the Tang dynasty. It actually evolved from the Manchu-style riding jacket (magua) of the late Qing period. The Tang suit typically is a tailored silk or brocade jacket with a mandarin collar and distinctive knotted frog closures down the front. It often features embroidered motifs like dragons, clouds, or geometric patterns. This style gained global visibility when world leaders donned tailored Tang jackets at the 2001 APEC summit in Shanghai, sparking a surge of pride and interest in Chinese attire. Since then, Tang suits have become popular festive wear, especially for men during Lunar New Year celebrations or weddings, as they evoke cultural tradition with a touch of modern comfort. Women’s Tang-style jackets are also common, cut with a more fitted shape and paired with skirts or pants.
A young woman pairs a green silk Tang jacket with classic frog buttons and floral patterns with casual modern shorts, illustrating how traditional elements mix with contemporary style. This blend of old and new is at the heart of today’s Chinese fashion revival. Alongside Tang suits, there is a growing Hanfu movement. Young people in China and abroad are enthusiastically wearing ancient-style Hanfu outfits in daily life and photoshoots. It is now not unusual to see people strolling in parks wearing flowing Han dynasty-style gowns or Tang-inspired dresses for fun, especially in cities or at cultural festivals. Contemporary designers are also incorporating traditional Chinese clothing elements into runway fashion, from mandarin collars on blouses to silk brocade fabrics in evening wear.
The legacy of Chinese women’s clothing is alive and well. These garments, whether it is the dignified Hanfu, the ever-chic qipao, or the smart Tang suit, continue to inspire and find new expression. The enduring appeal lies in their combination of beauty, symbolism, and cultural identity that resonates even in modern wardrobes.
Embracing the Style Today
Chinese traditional fashion offers something for everyone, blending history with elegance. Many 21st-century women are rediscovering these styles, whether by donning an ornate cheongsam for a special event or styling a Tang-inspired jacket with jeans for a chic East-West fusion. Interested in adding a touch of the Orient to your wardrobe? Consider exploring these Chinese clothing styles. You might attend a cultural festival in Hanfu or dress up in a qipao for an evening out. By embracing these timeless fashions, you celebrate a piece of living history and make a bold, beautiful statement. Enjoy the journey through Chinese style, and let the past inspire your modern look.
