What are the Different Types of Traditional Chinese Clothing?
Over thousands of years, various dynasties have shaped distinct styles of traditional Chinese clothing each with its own unique characteristics and significance. Women's attire showcases a delicate balance of elegance, craftsmanship, and cultural expression. From the flowing, intricate designs of Hanfu to the sleek and sophisticated qipao, traditional Chinese clothing captures the beauty and grace of Chinese women throughout history. This article explores some of the most iconic styles—Hanfu, Qipao, Tangzhuang, and the Zhongshan suit—highlighting their historical origins, evolution, and enduring influence on Chinese fashion.
Hanfu
Hanfu (汉服, meaning "Han clothing") is the traditional clothing of the Han Chinese people – the ethnic majority in China. The style originated over 3000 years ago in the Shang Dynasty (1600 – 1046 BC) and typically consisted of a knee-length tunic tided with a sash (known as yi) worn over an angle-length skirt (shang). Often a knee-length out skirt or apron (bixi) was also worn.
Over the centuries, Hanfu was continued and evolved by successive dynasties. The Tang Dynasty, for example, preferred bold, open-neck gowns. The Song and Ming Dynasties saw more conservative, layered robes. Common variations of hanfu include the ruqun (a two-piece blouse and skirt), shenyi (one-piece wrapped robe), and beizi (a long open coat). Each has its own distinctive look and historical origin.
Hanfu fell out of everyday use following the Qing dynasty, which mandated Manchu clothing in an effort to establish itself as the ruling power. In the early 2000s, Hanfu began a resurgence spurred by an article about Wang LeTian, who had been spotted wearing a homemade shenyi.
Since then, hanfu has been revived for daily wear, cultural festivals and photo shoots. Modern versions often blend convenience with tradition, pairing hanfu clothing with trainers or hoodies for fusion look. Some designs incorporate zips and lighter fabric for convenience, creating the “new hanfu” movement.
Qipao (Cheongsam)
The qipao, also known as the cheongsam, is a one-piece Chinese dress for women that rose to popularity during the 20th century. It evolved form the changpao of the Qing Dynasty (1644 – 1912), which was originally worn by Manchu men. In the 1920s, designers in Shanghai transformed the robe into a fitted, stylish dress for women. Earlier versions of the qipao were usually long, with a high mandarin collar and a straight silhouette. It was elegant, but still conservative by modern standards. Modern cheongsam (post 1940s) tend to be form-hugging and often feature high side slits and can be sleeveless or short sleeved. Many modern qipaos are knee-length or mid-calf, rather than ankle-length.
Common fabrics for qipao include silk and satin as well as cotton, linen or lace in modern variants. Decorations like flowers, birds, bamboo and the distinctive frog buttons on the front are often included.
The qipao became common everyday wear for urban Chinese women in the 1920s-60s, especially among socialites in Shanghai. It experienced a decline in Mainland China in the 1950s, but remained popular in Hong Kong, where it was worn as school uniforms and formal attire through the 1960s. Today, the cheongsam is mostly worn as formal or semi-formal attire at weddings, Chinese New Year and cultural events. However, it is increasingly used as daily-wear but an enthusiastic subset of Chinese.
Nevertheless, the cheongsam endures as a timeless symbol of Chinese elegance. Modern designers continue to reinvent the qipao with redesigned silhouettes and embellishments to appeal to contemporary tastes. The qipao’s blend of traditional charm and flattering cut has also made it a global fashion icon, with celebrities and fashion enthusiasts donning the garment worldwide.
Tangzhuang (Tang Suit)
Tangzhuang, often called a Tang suit, refers to a style of Chinese jacket – not actually from the Tang Dynasty, but named after the term “Tang” which overseas Chinese use to mean Chinese culture. This jacket style originated from the late Qing Dynasty magua and features a straight Mandarin collar and knotted frog closures down the front. Traditional tangzhuang are often made of silk or silk-like fabric and may be adorned with Chinese symbols (e.g. embroidered characters like fu for luck or shou for longevity). The cut is generally a straight, waist-length or hip-length jacket with long sleeves, and it can be worn by both men and women.
Historically, this style was popularized as a modern Chinese formal outfit around the early 20th century and gained international notice when leaders at the 2001 APEC summit donned tangzhuang jackets.
Nowadays, the Tang suit is considered formal dress for events like Chinese New Year celebrations, wedding banquets, or important gatherings. It’s also worn by overseas Chinese communities during cultural festivals or as banquet attire, as it expresses heritage in a distinguished yet convenient form. Modern tangzhuang may use a variety of fabrics and sometimes incorporate Western suit elements, but the outward design remains traditional.
In everyday fashion, some younger people might mix a tang-style jacket with casual pants as an East-meets-West look. Generally, the Tang suit represents a bridge between historical Qing-era clothing and modern Chinese style, remaining a popular traditional jacket that is readily available for purchase, especially around festival seasons.
Zhongshan Suit (Mao Suit)
The Zhongshan suit, commonly known as the Mao Suit is a type of unified Chinese suit for men, originally introduced by Dr. Sun Zhongshan in the 1910s as a form of modern national dress. It combines Eastern and Western tailoring – typically a high, closed collar and a front buttoned coat with four patch pockets. The design carried symbolic meanings: the four pockets were said to represent the Four Virtues (propriety, justice, integrity, honour).
After the founding of the People’s Republic of China in 1949, this tunic suit became almost universally worn by male citizens and Communist officials (hence the name “Mao suit”). Though it largely fell out of everyday fashion by the 1980s in favour of Western business suits, the Zhongshan suit is still used on formal occasions. Chinese state leaders often wear this suit at national ceremonies or commemorative events as a nod to tradition. It is also a popular choice for grooms or older generations during wedding ceremonies and is seen as a classic, dignified attire. Bespoke tailors of traditional Chinese clothing in China and Hong Kong continue to make Zhongshan suits, and ready-made versions can also be found.
Summary
Traditional Chinese clothing captures the elegance, grace and cultural depth of China’s history. The Hanfu, with its flowing fabrics showcase centuries of craftmanship has experienced an incredible revival in modern times.
The qipao, or cheongsam stands out as a symbol of timeless sophistication with its sleek silhouette and delicate details. It is generally worn at formal or semi-form events, but increasingly as daily-wear.
The adaptability of these different styles of traditional Chinese clothing and the innovation of Chinese designers has allowed these garments to retain a place in modern fashion. As the styles continue to evolve, they allow wearers to celebrate Chinese heritage while expressing their individuality and preserving the elegance of Chinese fashion.
